Life in Japan BGSU-HJU Home Hiroshima Links Day Trips Overnight Trips Travel Home Longer Trips Transport Tokyo The throbbing capital of Japan, there really is no other place on earth as big, as bright, or crowded as this megalopolis. Originally named Edo, it was a small and rather unimportant town until Tokugawa Ieyasu moved the shogunate there in 1603 to escape the pressures of the Kyoto court (1). Thus, true political power resided in the growing city though it was not officially made the capital until the Meiji Restoration in 1868 when it also was given its present name. Although it has suffered natural disasters including the infamous Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, and later lost half its population due to fire bombing in World War II, Tokyo has continued to grow until it has become the largest city in the country, over twice the population of the next highest competitor (2). Considering the sheer size of Tokyo, the vast number of sites and places to see, it really constitutes an entire discussion. The megalopolis is divided into districts, each with their own unique flavor and specialty. I have not been able to see every district but was left with distinct impressions of those I did. Central Tokyo Ginza: Ginza is rather like what 5th Avenue is to NYC. Huge but overpriced brand name stores like Prada and Gucci line the crowded streets. The restaurants and bars reflect this tony atmosphere and unless you’re quite wealthy, there’s nothing really to do in Ginza but watch the rich folk enviously. Imperial Palace: The palace as it stands today was pretty much built after the war, any other structures having been completely obliterated in the bombing of Tokyo (3). Visitors are allowed to see parts of the residence, but only if they register by phone or internet at least one day ahead and have a foreign passport. If you don’t have time to do this, there’s not much point in going although you can take pictures with the famous Nijubashi (bridge) on the eastern side of the complex. Other places: The infamous Yasakuni shrine is located in the central district. Dedicated to those fallen in battle, unfortunately many war criminals including Tojo Hideki are honored there alongside common soldiers and other martyrs for the country. Prime Minister Koizumi’s frequent visits to this shrine have been denounced by the countries that suffered under Japan’s imperial aggression in WWII and thus international tensions strained. Tokyo Tower is located in this area as well. I have not actually gone into it for lack of time and interest, and I understand that it costs a pretty penny to do so anyways. Northern Tokyo Ueno: Ueno itself is an interesting mix of tall buildings filled with restaurants, karaoke, and shops, as well as back alleys that were once part of a WWII black market that still sells supposedly discounted brand name goods. More important however is Ueno Park. The lovely city park takes up a large amount of space in the Ueno district with its many museums, sculptures, and temples. During the spring the place is full of cherry blossoms and consequentially people wishing to have picnics. During the winter however people are relatively few. There are many shrines, temples, and museums scattered through the place but the only one I’ve been to is the Tokyo National Museum which I highly recommend. There are three main buildings to the complex featuring primarily Japanese art and artifacts including an enormous collection of early pottery, jewelry, mirrors, and the like. The museum also has a good collection of artifacts from other ancient nations, mainly Asian, but including an Egyptian mummy, artifacts of Greece, Turkey, and other Mediterranean civilizations as well. Also in Ueno Park is the National Science Museum with a huge replica of a humpback wale in front of it, the National Museum of Western Art, and the National Zoo. West Tokyo Shinjuku: Shinjuku is really divided into two subsections. The eastern half is an often seedy but vibrant party district while the western part is filled with skyscrapers, businesses, and lots of coffee shops. There are a few interesting looking museums in the vicinity though they were all closed the day I was there. Harajuku: Consisting of a narrow alley stretching from Yoyogi Park (where you can see the Olympic Stadium from 1964) back towards Shinjuku, Harajuku has a reputation for being the hotspot for Japan’s counter culture, no matter what the stereotype. There are hundreds of little shops, some with a hippy motif, others punk, some for drag queens, and more than a few for the Gothic Lolita look. The only thing is that most these shops are ridiculously overpriced. Don’t expect to eat in Harajuku either; there aren’t many affordable restaurants besides McDonalds in the alley though there are a large amount of crepe shops for some reason. Whatever you do, do NOT go during the New Years Holidays. Harajuku is never empty but during those few days the crowds are simply ridiculous. Shibuya: Shibuya is a party district for the youth of Japan, filled with Indian, Thai, American, and other foreign restaurants not to mention countless stores for all manner of things including shoes, manga, and jewelry. The streets are narrow and always crowded, becoming completely ridiculous around 5:00 P.M. no matter what time of year. If you can get out before that time however, the district can be a lot of fun. Roppongi: Playground for the wealthy, Roppongi is an odd network of expensive bars and name brand stores mixed in with strip clubs, though I’d warrant they are expensive strip clubs. The most notable feature of the district is the newly built Roppongi Hills mall, two huge towers of shops and restaurants, most of which are far out of the normal person’s budget. The style of the mall is odd too, reminiscent of a Mayan temple on the first floor but becoming tight and claustrophobic the rest of the way up. It’s very easy to get lost in the huge complex even with the help of signs but worth seeing if only for the sheer size and obvious expense. Also, the hill leading up to the mall gives a great view of Tokyo Tower. Azubujyuuban: Down the street from Roppongi Hills is a borough of small but usually somewhat expensive stores, all with a somewhat European feel which is enhanced by the large number of foreigners that call the area home. There are some pricey but nice restaurants in the area which are never as crowded as the establishments in say Shibuya or Roppongi. Near Tokyo Ikebukuro: This district is somewhat to the North-west of Tokyo proper and is dotted with skyscrapers filled with karaoke, movies, shops, restaurants, and the like. All in all, it’s rather similar to Shibuya. Of note is the gargantuan “Sunshine City” complex, a maze of a mall including a tall tower atop of which is an incredibly overpriced aquarium. Don’t bother spending the money to see it. (1)Tokyo Metropolitan Government. "Overview of Tokyo." http://www.metro.tokyo.jp/ENGLISH/PROFILE/OVERVIEW/overview1.htm Accessed 26 Nov. 2005. (2)Tokyo Metropolitan, "Overview" (3)Agency of the Royal Household. "Imperial Household" http://www.kunaicho.go.jp/07/d07-01.html 16 Nov. 2005. Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.