Longer Trips
Although it really depends on what you want to see and do, these cities are far enough from Hiroshima that you need more than one night to make the trip worth the money.
Nagoya
About: Nagoya has been an important crossroad between eastern and western Japan for centuries, and has thus thrived as a center of commerce and political power(1). Although an old settlement, its growth took off in the 16th century with the construction of various castles and their corresponding towns in the vicinity. The importance only increased when the powerful Tokugawa clan, family of shoguns, took power in 1615. Since then, the city’s size has increased so as to become the 4th largest city in Japan, and the area is now invaluable in industry and manufacturing.
The area was host to the 2005 World Expo which although finished now has resulted in a park area you can visit as well as numerous highways and extra transportation systems. The city is also full of clubs, museums, restaurants, shops, and other great things to do. Nevertheless, its greatest value remains that it is literally in the middle of Japan and thus a great ‘base of operations’ for trips in the region.
Nagoya Castle: Surrounded by the remnants and reconstructions of its walls and moats wherein deer roam freely, Nagoya-jyo is a beautiful replica of the original castle. The fortress as it is today originated in 1609 at the order of Tokugawa Ieyasu who wished to construct a ring of fortresses along the Tokaido (a highway twixt Kyoto and Edo) to protect his capital city after the battle of Sekigahara (2). The fortress was basically completed by 1612 and for 250 years rested in the hands of the Owari branch of the Tokugawa clan. However, the complex was almost completely destroyed in the 1945 air-raids so what can be seen today is a reconstruction from 1959.
The castle is most famous for the huge golden fish-creatures atop its roof called kin-shachi, or golden dolphins\killer whales. Most castles and many private homes are decorated with small shachi, but the ones on the Nagoya castle are enormous in size and priceless in their gold overlay. It is said that the tradition of putting the shachi on the castle began in the Muromachi period as a charm to prevent fires, but they soon became a symbol of the lord’s authority, and the gold ones of Nagoya as a whole (3). Inside the castle is a model of the shachi as well as an old one that was damaged, giving visitors an idea of their enormous size.
What is most amazing perhaps about Nagoya castle is the sheer size of it on the outside, puffed out by the thickness of its huge walls, while the inner areas are not really that large. Within the tower is a very nice museum including some fantastic models and dioramas as well as the usual assortment of swords, armor, and calligraphy.
Around the castle are gift shops and tourist joints, but the grounds are also home to Nagoya’s Noh theatre and some absolutely beautiful gardens.
Seto: Just outside of Nagoya proper is a small city called Seto which is extremely famous for its pottery. The practice as is today started in about the 10th century with ash-glazed pottery cooked in a tiered kiln that literally reaches up a hill. The style gained momentum with the popularity of the tea ceremony and its principles of simplicity (wabi sabi) in the Muromachi era(4). Eventually the works of the town became so popular and famous that the word “seto-mono” came to be synonymous with all pottery, although most people still use the words yaki-mono or douki. Seto-mono is considered to be on par with other famous pottery types like bizen-ware or raku-ware although its Sino-Korean influence is greater.
Needless to say, Seto is full of potters and dealers. There are also a variety of museums in the area as well as an edo-era highway you can walk on. It’s incredibly narrow and trying to imagine it full of people and pack animals is truly an astounding thought. More interestingly, the wall around the highway and much of the ‘pavement’ actually consists of pieces of worthless or broken pottery. Finally, temples and shrines in the area are often lavishly decorated with the same beautiful designs used on the ceramic tiles of the region, tiles which sometimes grace the bridges.
Other Notes: The city of Toyota, home of the car manufacturer, is not very far from Nagoya. They offer tours of the factory which are quite interesting. Also, if you’re going shopping, you might want to drop by “Oasis 21”, a huge, 3 year old complex in the heart of Nagoya with strange but attractive architecture reminiscent of a submarine, and many, many shops built into the labyrinth beneath. It’s right on the subway lines near the big radio needle.
Directions: Getting to Nagoya is easy enough: Most every shinkansen and train goes there. You can then maneuver the subways and trains to get to Nagoya castle or Seto.
Time Needed: This really depends on what else you want to do in the city. To wander Seto and the castle would probably take 1-2 hours. However, being a large city there’s always many things to see and do in Nagoya itself such as museum hopping, dining, shopping, dancing, or attending performances.
Nara
About: Nara and its surrounding area has been inhabited for years, gaining importance in the Kofun period and providing the homeland for many powerful clans including the Wani (Kasuga) and Hijikata (Sugawara) families (5). It also served as Japan’s capital under the name of Heijo-kyo from 710-784 during which time many fantastic temples and palaces were built, usually with Chinese influences. (6). Also during that time, Buddhism first came to Japan and so some of the first temples were built in Nara.
The whole city was nearly destroyed by warfare in 1180 and suffered again in 1560 but both times the people persevered and rebuilt, banding tighter together and soon transforming their home into an industrial and cultural center (7). Nara also has long thrived on tourism to its myriad shrines, temples, and palaces. Many of these sites are national treasures and\or UNESCO world heritage sites as cited in 1998(8). There are many more than listed here, but I have not had the fortune as of yet to see them all.
Todaiji: Located in Nara Park, Todaiji World Heritage Site is a huge building and famous for being the home to a statue of Buddha and two other bodhisattva that are literally as high as the ceiling (9). The temple dates back to 728 with the construction of an earlier temple for the bodhisattva called Kinshosen-ji (10). However in 740 the teachings of the Avatamska Sutra gained popularity and Todai-ji was born. Probably it was because of some of the tenants of this sutra that the Emperor Shoumu eventually felt it necessary to construct an enormous statue of the Buddha (Daibutsu in Japanese) to worship, though different reasons for its creation have been given, some more mystical than others. The order for its creation came 743 but due to a series of disasters, construction of the temple did not actually start until 745, and casting of the statue continued until 751. Since then the complex has suffered numerous fires, earthquakes, and other disasters thus having to be rebuilt several times. The last renovation was in 1709.
The edifice and the statues within are truly incredible, and most people fall silent upon first entering the building. In the back of the main room however the atmosphere turns more jovial as people try to force their bodies through a large hole in one of the pillars, said to be equivalent in size to one of the Buddha’s nostrils. It is said that if you can make it through, you are truly enlightened…though that would mean every three year old in the place is a Buddha…
Outside the main temple is another statue cloaked in red. A bodhisattava, it is said that if you touch him on a spot you’re inflicted then touch yourself on the spot that you will be healed.
Also, one note. Watch out for the sacred deer. They like to eat anything they can get their teeth on, from pringles to umbrellas, to human flesh.
Kasuga Taisha: Right across the street from Todaiji is a heavily forested area filled with sacred deer and whose paths are lined with haunting stone lanterns. If you’re familiar with the movie “Spirited Away” or some of the other works by Studio Ghibli, then you will understand what I mean when I say it feels like you’re walking into the movie. The forest itself has been considered holy since 841 and thus off limits to loggers and the like though room has been made within it for the shrine, a museum of weapons and armor, and of course the typical tourist traps (11). Both the forest and the shrine are considered part of the Nara UNESCO site.
Kasuga Taisha (Taisha meaning 'Grand Shrine') was itself built in 768 (12). The shrine is an attractive orange-and-white structure with even more lanterns inside. Thanks to the patronage of the Fujiwara clan whose name means wisteria, the priestesses there wear sprigs of the flower in their hair. They also have a beautiful headdress with silver tassels gracing their foreheads. However, they aren't usually friendly and so combined with the spooky atmosphere of the forest, the place can be a bit unsettling.
Horyu-ji: The Horyu-ji complex is absolutely enormous so make sure to bring your walking shoes. Located a ways out of Nara in Ikaruga City, it was one of the first major Buddhist temples in Japan (13). Construction began in 609 at the orders of Prince Shotoku, but has continued right up until our present day. More than once parts of the building suffered from fire and have had to be reconstructed as well.
The temple is divided into 2 parts, and you have to pay separately to enter them. The larger, Western half or Sai-in has many halls and corridors for the monks that call the temple home, as well as a Chinese style story pagoda surrounded by a cloister built in 680 (14). These are some of the oldest wooden buildings in the world still in existence and though they look a little careworn, they’re still quite elegant.
On the Eastern side or To-in is the octagonal Hall of Dreams or Visions (Yumedono), a unique and lovely structure with a diorama of Prince Shotoku inside it.
Between the two halves there’s a museum of the temple’s many treasures, which although it costs a bit extra to get in, is worth it. There are many priceless artifacts as well as things having to do with Prince Shotoku, his life and actions.
While there, keep your eyes out for all the detail that has been put into the temple's decoration. The tiles of the roofs are elegant and the troughs of water for purification are decorated with statues of dragons and phoenixes.
Directions: Nara is easily reached by JR taken from Osaka or Kyoto. Once in the city, buses or trains can pretty much take you where you need to go.
Time Needed: Once in Nara, it depends how much you want to see. Give yourself at least 2-4 hours to see Todaiji and Kasuga Taisha (they’re both in Nara park). It’s a bit of a bus ride out to Horyu-ji where to even walk from one side to another you probably need 1.5-3 hours.
Kyoto
About: Originally called Heian-kyo, the originally well organized city became the capital of Japan in 794 thus inaugurating the Heian Period (15). Organization suffered throughout the years though the city continued to be generally prosperous. Its name was changed to Kyoto somewhere around the 11th century, and due to the emergence of many new sects and the construction of new temples between the 13th and 15th centuries, it got a reputation as a spiritual center for Japan. After a major decline due to war in the 15th century, the city was entirely rebuilt by order of Toyotomi Hideyoshi and flourished again for a time. Fortunes changed once again for the worse in the 18th and 19th centuries when the city suffered three major fires that ravaged its economy. When the capital was finally moved to Tokyo in 1868 due to the Meiji Restoration, the city nearly collapsed. However, through innovation and perseverance it managed to gradually regain its footing, and as it was spared allied fire bombing in WWII remains one of the most beautiful cities in the world with innumerable national treasures and multiple World Heritage sites.
As with any large city, there is plenty of nightlife, dining, and shopping to be had in Kyoto but the main attractions are the temples, palaces, and other ancient structures as well as a famous geisha culture. Though most of the “geisha” you will see on the streets are actually just tourists who spent a good deal of money for a photo shoot and a bit of fun, once in a while you might spot a true apprentice or master of the art of entertainment.
Gosho It was this enormous complex that served as the imperial household from 794 until the move of the capital in 1868 (16). It has burned down a number of times but was always rebuilt in the same manner, with a mixture of architectural looks. Some parts of the 110,000 square meters of the palace are vermillion and white like a shrine, complete with a stunningly white rock garden. Others are dark brown with white or gold accents. However it’s the sheer historical significance of the place that makes it something to not be missed.
Note, you cannot just walk into Kyoto Gosho and strangely enough a native Japanese person must register to enter up to a year in advance. Foreigners on the other hand need only bring their passport with which they can receive a special pass then join one of the tours led by house staff. The tours are usually in Japanese but they provide brochures with translations as well as audio devices with a recorded tour.
Nijyo-jyo: Although built for defensive reasons, this palace seems too beautiful to have ever been meant for warfare despite its many walls. Its construction, ordered by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1601, was completed in 1603 (17). In 1626 however the entire palace was renovated, and the present Ninomaru palace constructed in a diagonal line along the pond of the lovely Ninomaru garden. (18). The structure is truly gorgeous with all manner of wood work, gold inlays, and most uniquely, “nightingale floors”. Designed to prevent anyone from sneaking up on the emperor and his entourage, the boards of the floor rest on hinges that rock with the slightest amount of weight creating a shrill squeak that although amazing in its ingenuity quickly grows annoying.
Another part of the palace kept within thick walls behind the Ninomaru palace burned in 1788 but in 1868 was replaced with part of the Katsura-no-Miya detached palace that had originally been built in 1847 (19). It is built in an edo-era fashion with more austere lines and decoration compared to the Ninomaru palace.
Due to the delicacy of the many paintings and scrolls within the castles, visitors are forbidden from taking pictures within the castles themselves though there’s no restriction on the gorgeous gardens.
Ninnaji: A very large complex, Ninnaji is an interesting mix of typical Buddhist temples and an actual imperial palace. The latter costs a bit to enter but is worth it.
The original temple was begun in 886 under the name Nishi-yama-go-gan-ji but the emperor who commissioned it passed away prior to its completion which was undertaken by the following emperor, Uda. (20). During the Onin Wars in 1467 however, the place was burnt to the ground and although money was given to rebuild, it was not enough. Finally around 1634, at the orders of Tokugawa shogunate, money was raised and the temple restored, its main hall being replaced by a part of the old imperial palace that was also being rebuilt at the time. This part of the temple is quite lovely, an external raised deck providing a nice place to sit and stare at the large rock garden or fabulous landscaping. There is also a tea ceremony you can pay for. The rest of the temple includes a 5 story vermillion pagoda and a few other dark-brown and white halls with gold and bronze trimming.
Kinkakuji: Without a doubt, Kinkakuji is one of the best known temples in Japan, and also one of the most beautiful. Located in northern Kyoto, as the name indicates it is the location of the famous Golden Pavillion that has become a symbol for the city.
The construction of the present temple is wrapped up in the life of the third Ashikaga Shogun, Yoshimitsu(21). Having bequeathed the throne to his nine year old son Yoshimochi in 1394, he bought the land that now houses the temple from the once powerful Saionji clan and in 1397 began to construct the Kitayama palace which would later gain great fame for the visit of Emperor Gokomatsu. The jewel of the palace was the Gold-covered Relic Hall that contained many priceless Chinese goods that had been brought from Ming China during Yoshimitsu’s reign. At his death, the land was bequeathed by his son to Yoshimitsu’s old mentor, the priest Musou Souseki. The area was renamed Rokuon-ji for the posthumous Buddhist name of Yoshimitsu, but nowadays the presence of the golden (kin) pavilion holds more importance and even official documents and charms call the temple Kinkakuji.
Regretfully in 1950 a fanatical monk committed suicide by igniting himself and the golden pavilion, burning it to the ground (22). Thankfully, the pavilion was built a few years later and looks absolutely fantastic in its new incarnation.
Certainly the relic hall is the main attraction to Kinkakuji, but the natural beauty of the grounds is just as stunning. The only problem is the crowds that flock to see the lovely place can be annoying.
Yasaka Jinja and Gion Matsuri: Located right at the end of Kyoto’s main drag, this pretty and energetic temple filled with lanterns, is associated with the third largest festival in Japan, the Gion Festival. The festival began in 896 when parts of the Yasaka (or Gion) shrine were paraded through the streets in order to combat the disease brought on by a supposed curse (23). The tradition continued in order to prevent further disaster from befalling the city and has grown into the huge mass of humanity that gathers to watch the now numerous shrines, or hoko, go by. Though the actual festival stretches over the entire month of July, the most important days are the 16th and 17th. The first night there is a big party downtown, the second the hoko are paraded through the streets. These huge shrines swathed in fine silks and tapestries can’t easily turn corners so logs are put under them and maneuvered in such a way as to move the huge floats without smashing the tight crowd. At the end of it all there is a big service at the Yasaka shine.
Attending the Gion festival on its important days is not for the clausterphobic or light of heart. The crowds are amazing in scope and often rudeness, pushing and shoving others into utter madness. However, there’s a lot to be seen and fun to be had if you can tolerate the masses.
Kiyomizudera: A huge and absolutely beautiful temple complex built into the mountains, it is known for the clean water that trickles from a fountain below the main halls. Given its beauty and historical popularity, it is little wonder that this Buddhist temple is one of the World Heritage Sites in Kyoto.
The first version of the temple was constructed in 798 by the general Sakanoue no Tamuramaro though legend says that 20 years prior the philosopher-monk Enchin had placed a statue of the bodhisattva of mercy, Konzeon Bosatsu (also called Kuan Yin or Kannon sama) on that mountain (24). Unfortunately, the temple suffered numerous fires over the years and little of the original structures remain. In 1633 however the present main hall or Hondo was constructed, complete with its world famous veranda that overlooks the entirety of Kyoto and from which it is said no bad picture can be taken.
There is also a small shinto shrine built into the temple complex called the Jinshu-jinja which is dedicated to O-kuninushi-no-mikoto, kami of marriage among other things. There's a rock in the shrine that if you can walk to it with your eyes closed from a designated spot, it is said you will soon find your true love.
Leading up to the temple are a huge amount of tourist shops, and during summer an even larger amount of patrons. However, upon entering the temple, no matter the crowds, it seems peaceful. Also, the water that has made the temple famous is almost unnaturally clear and clean, very refreshing on a hot day.
Ryoanji: Like Kiyomizudera, despite huge crowds of people that gather here, this Zen temple which was converted from a country villa in 1450 manages to be serene and inspirational (25). The main hall, rebuilt in 1488, was destroyed in a fire in 1797 and consequently replaced with the older hall of another temple. However it isn’t the buildings that draw people here.
Located in front of the main hall though obscured to first glance by a wall, the “dry landscape” rock garden constructed around the 15th century is considered a National Heritage Site (26). Small but elegant, the garden consists of white pebbles interspersed with 15 large rocks that are placed in such a way that from no angle can you see them all at once, unless of course you’re enlightened. There’s a veranda in front of the rocks making a perfect place to sit and meditate for a while.
The grounds surrounding the temple are also gorgeous. There’s a huge lake right near the entrance with a small island shrine in its center, not to mention numerous trees and plants.
Directions: Like the other big cities, Kyoto is easy to reach, especially since it sits on the Shinkansen route. Once there, there’s a simple system of subways and many buses by which you can get around.
Time Needed: If during the Gion festival, leave extra time for reason of crowds. Otherwise, for the palaces you need about 1.5 hours, and 1-2 hours for the temples. Yasaka shrine is a brief stop you can make on the way to Kiyomizudera which is about a 10-15 minute walk from that point, and fairly well marked.
(1) Nagoya Convention and Visitor's Bureau. http://www.ncvb.or.jp/index.html Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(2)Nagoyajyo. "Nagoyajyo and Nagoya Noh Theatre Homepage." http://www.nagoyajo.naka.nagoya.jp/ 24 November 2005. Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(3)Nagoyajyo. "Nagoyajyo"
(4)City of Seto. "Town of Seto-mono." http://www.city.seto.aichi.jp/setomono/kankou/index.html Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(5) City of Nara. "City Profile." http://www.city.nara.nara.jp/profile/oitati.htm Acessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(6)“Ancient Capital of Nara" in Web Japan's Japan Atlas, 2005 [database on-line]. http://web-japan.org/atlas/historical/histr_fr.html Accessed 25 Nov. 2005.
(7) City of Nara, "City Profile."
(8) Ibid.
(9) "Ancient Capital of Nara"
(10)Todaiji Homepage. http://www.todaiji.or.jp/ 2005. Accessed 26 Nov. 2005
(11) "Ancient Capital of Nara".
(12) Ibid.
(13)"Horyuji Temple". in Web Japan's Japan Atlas, 2005 [database on-line] http://web-japan.org/atlas/architecture/arc19.html Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(14) "Horyuji Temple"
(15)City of Kyoto. "Historical Kyoto" http://www.city.kyoto.jp/koho/eng/historical/1200.html 2004. Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(16)Agency of the Royal Household. "Imperial Households in Kyoto" http://www.kunaicho.go.jp/07/d07-06.html#KYOUTO 16 Nov. 2005. Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(17) "Original Detached Palace Nijo-jyo" http://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/nijojo/nenpyo.html Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(18) "Nijo-jyo" from City of Kyoto, World Heritage Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto. [database on-line]. http://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/bunkazai/isan-q.htm Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(19) "Original Detached Palace"; "Nijo-jyo"
(20)Head Temple of Buddhist Sec Ninna-ji Temple. http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/ninnaji/index.html 9 November 2005. Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(21)Shoukoku-ji Temple. "History of Kinkakuji". http://www.shokoku-ji.or.jp/shokokuji/history/kinkakuji_01.html 2002. Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(22) Shokoku-ji Temple, "History of Kinkakuji".
(23) Kyoto I-Net. Gion Matsuri. http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/org/yasaka/gionmaturi.html 2005. Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(24 ) "Kiyomizudera" from City of Kyoto, World Heritage Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto: [database on-line]. http://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/bunkazai/isan-d.htm Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(25) "Ryoanji" from City of Kyoto, World Heritage Historic Monuments of Ancient Kyoto: [database on-line] http://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/bunkazai/isan-o.htm Accessed 26 Nov. 2005.
(26) "Ryoanji"