Life in Japan BGSU-HJU Home Hiroshima Links Overnight Trips Longer Trips Travel Home Tokyo Transport Day Trips from Hiroshima Kurashiki About:Kurashiki is a small town easily accessed by train. During the Edo era, it became a key link in trade routes and under direct control of the shogunate.(1) Due to its commercial nature, warehouses were in great abundance, many of which have been preserved and turned into shops, restaurants, and museums. The Bikan historic district as it’s called is centered on a scenic canal, home to swans in the summer and surrounded by willows. The most famous museum in Kurashiki is the Ohara art museum which features a decent collection of western art. Due to its well known status however, it’s usually crowded. Thus, if on a time schedule, you’d probably do better to pass it by and see western art back home. Nevertheless, you might want to go to its modern art wing, or rather the attractive garden across from it. Other museums include those of folk arts and crafts, children’s toys, archaeology, and a few others. The archaeology museum is quite interesting, featuring a selection of ancient artifacts from around the area as well as a donated group of items from Peru and Mesoamerica. The best part however is that compared to the other museums it wasn’t crowded. Directions: The quickest way would be to take the Shinkansen to Okayama then hop a local Sanyo line train heading west to Kurashiki. You also could simply take the Sanyo line all the way to Kurashiki. This of course takes a lot more time but costs a bit less. Upon arrival, Follow the signs leading towards “Bikan Historic District” or “Canal District”: the total walk from the station takes about 10-20 minutes. Other Recommendations: Eating in Kurashiki can be pretty expensive thanks to its tourist nature. If you’re on a tight budget you may want to consider bringing a picnic lunch or waiting until you leave the town to eat. Time Needed: Simply dropping in and wandering around for a few minutes would probably take all of 30-40 minutes, but if you actually want to do any shopping or view the museums give yourself at least 2-3 hours. Onomichi City About: A small town beside the scenic Seto Inland Sea, Onomichi has been a trading port for years. Thus, it has been home to rich merchants who built a myriad of shrines and temples of varying sects throughout the area as well as poets and authors inspired by the town's beauty. Along with the religious centers are many antique shops along with the usual daily-life stores and tourist traps. For sightseers, there is actually a bus that runs in a loop around the city. Unfortunately though, it’s fairly slow so unless you don’t mind waiting for a long while, I would recommend simply walking. There are various paths throughout the city you can follow, denoted by special pavement. One path leads you to the many temples and shrines while another takes you to a series of large stones carved with poems by famous authors. Unless you can read like a native however, deciphering these writings can be extremely difficult. I did not see every shrine while I was there but got to a good many. My favorites were Kongoin with its pagoda and numerous cherry trees, and Jodoji, reportedly built by the famous Prince Shotoku who brought Buddhism to Japan. There is also a hill more or less in the center of the city which is covered in more temples as well as lovely gardens, a cemetery, and crested by a public park. The view is breathtaking. There’s a ropeway to the top but it’s pretty expensive so you might as well use the stairs. Directions: The quickest way to get to Onomichi would be to take a shinkansen to Fukuyama then hop a Sanyo line train to the city itself. However, you can also take a regular Sanyo line train for a lot less cash. Time Needed: To truly see everything in the town you would probably have to stay all day, but you can have a good time and see a lot in just 3-5 hours. Himeji About: Himeji is a mid-sized city about halfway between Hiroshima and Osaka and world famous for its absolutely gorgeous castle in which the city's history is intertwined. Himeji-jyo: One of the very few original castles still standing thanks to their frequent destruction by war, fires, or earthquakes, this massive white structure dates back to the very beginning of the 17th century(2). The city itself is older however, having been built up around an earlier fort in 1333 then renovated in 1581 by orders of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of the three great unifiers of Japan. He also ordered the construction of a 3 story castle on the present spot of Himeji-jyo. From 1601-1609, the castle was rebuilt and enlarged into its present form by the son-in-law of the final great unifier Tokugawa Ieyasu, Ikeda Terumasa. Time and weather unfortunately took its toll on the building and so it was renovated again between 1934 and 1964, the workmen trying to stay as true to the original look and techniques as possible. Finally, restored to fantastic glory, it was designated a World Heritage Site in 1993 (3). The castle is still enormous in comparison to most of the others that still stand even though some wings, including the glorious residence of the lord, were not restored (4). Damage comes easy after all as the walls are entirely made of thick lumber coated in white plaster. That hue is the reason for the nickname, Shirasagi-jyo, or the White Heron Castle. The entire structure rests on a sturdy base of piled stone. Make sure to take a good look at some of those stones as there are a good number that are actually pieces of lanterns, mill stones, and even coffins. The reason for this odd assortment was the lack of suitable rock in the vicinity leading the builders to use whatever pieces they could get their hands on. The practice is typical of many other castles in the area as well. Also be sure to check out the tiles of the roof. Many have what looks like a whirling symbol with dots: this is to ward off fire, the biggest danger to an all wood castle. There are also the crests of families who donated money to the construction. The castle as it stands today is basically divided into two portions: the wall and the tower. Interestingly enough, the wall was actually more than a simple protective feature. In the tight corners, rooms that were too small to be of use to defense, the women of the court kept their quarters. Nevertheless, the most important purpose was still martial and thus there are many small holes in the walls in a variety of shapes that were used to drop stones, hot liquid, and literally anything else the defenders could throw at the enemy. The tower in the meanwhile was a defensive center with toilets and storerooms on the bottom floor. Weapons covered the walls and the whole thing was built with twisting, steep stairs, tiny alcoves for defenders to take cover, and even multi-level rooms better for obliterating possible enemies. At the very top is the Osakabe shrine and windows from which you can get a lovely view of the surrounding city. Legend has it that once they tried to move this shrine but upon doing so the ghost of an old monk appeared and petitioned them to bring it back. Another ghost story related to the castle has to do with a small well in front of the main tower. The story as it was told to me speaks of a serving maid, Okiku, who overheard a plot against the lord of the castle and told her lover, a faithful retainer. The plot was thwarted but the evil retainer who had organized the coup was not severely punished and was instead left to his devices within the palace. Still furious that his nefarious plans had fallen through, he sought out the name of his betrayer. Upon discovering it was poor Okiku, he framed her for the theft of a priceless golden plate that it was her job to polish. This plot did work and the unfortunate lady was slain by her furious lord, her hapless corpse thrown into the well that now bears her name. Shortly after her murder though, her voice could be heard frantically counting the plates every night. It wasn’t until the evil retainer was discovered as the true thief and finally punished for his crimes that the nocturnal moaning ceased. The well has become a sort of shrine and Okiku is considered a kami (deity). Thus, people make offerings of coins. Around the wall and tower is a large park area with a huge green space, souvenir shop, western-style garden, and lots of mangy stray cats. Also of note, after buying your ticket and before entering the castle proper, you can stop at a booth and hire an English speaking tour guide…for free! The tours can be quite informative and interesting. In fact, many little details I reported here I overheard from the guides. However, there are also plaques all about the castle grounds that give good explanations which the guides often simply repeat so if you prefer to be left alone, you will not miss too much. Kokoen: Kokoen is located right next door to Himeji-jyo. In fact, you can buy tickets that give you entrance to both for a slight discount. This traditional-style garden was recently built, and sits atop some of the earlier ruins of Himeji-jyo that were not fully restored. There’s a main building with an expensive restaurant but a great view, and as with most gardens, a tea house where for 500 yen you can take in the lovely scenery over a cup of traditionally served matcha. Kokoen is divided into different gardens with various themes. One area for example is supposed to mimic a miniaturized landscape of a pine forest, another of a bamboo grove. Many of the walls that divide these gardens are actually reconstructions of the original barriers of the samurai retainer’s houses, the differing colors signifying a different resident. There are also benches, bridges, a waterfall, and incredible beauty. I definitely recommend taking 30 minutes or so to see the place. Directions: Again, the easiest way to reach Himeji is Shinkansen. The bullet train makes a stop right in the city. However, the regular JR lines run through there as well so ultimately the decision comes down to how much money and time you wish to spend. Once there, it’s incredibly easy to get to the garden and castle: Go straight from the station, following the signs, until you literally run into the moat. Time Needed: For the castle, 2-4 hours. For the gardens, 30 minutes to an hour. Matsue About: Near 180km north of Hiroshima and overlooking Lake Shinji on the north coast of Japan, Matsue is known for its beauty and mystery. Tengu, skilled but mercurial crow-men, are said to reside in the mountains leading to the coastal town, and road signs are covered with cartoon pictures of the deities who call the area home, including the trickster deity and brother to the sun goddess, Susano-o. Matsue is also a popular resort town with beautiful scenery and many things to see. Apparently the city began as a temple town centered around the important Izumo Taisha shrine(5). However, the city as it is today took form in the Edo period. Furthermore, just last March, some of the other cities in the area that had been conglomerated into one district in 1961 were added to Matsue’s jurisdiction, making it larger and stronger than ever. Matsue Castle: Built in 1611 by the daimyo Horio Yoshiharu, this is one of the few original castle towers still standing, and the only one in Shimane prefecture (6). It is black in color and surrounded by a pretty park filled with cherry trees. In its moat, home to herons and swans, there are boat tours offered. Inside the castle tower is a nice museum filled with various artifacts including numerous suits of samurai armor, swords, and the like. The top floor grants a fabulous view of the area as a whole. Buke-Yashiki (Samurai’s home): Near the castle are the old samurais' quarters, still intact and now housing myriad shops and restaurants. One of the houses has been turned into a museum which, through use of reconstructed and actual artifacts as well as mannequins, shows what life was like for a typical retainer to the owner of the castle. Lafcadio Hearn Residence: Lafcadio Hearn was one of the first writers to introduce Japan to the west although he did so in the imperialistic manner typical of his era. Mainly interested in ghost stories, he translated and published quite a number of works all based on the years he spent in Japan as a teacher of English. Though he only lived there a brief time, the house he stayed in while at Matsue has been preserved, turned into a small museum, and the city plays up his connection in a grab for tourists. The museum is nicely put together but very small for the price you have to pay. Thus, unless you really have an interest in Hearn’s works, it would be better to avoid it. Izumo Taisha: About a thirty minute drive to the west of Matsue itself, this shrine complex is of great importance to the Shinto religion. Dedicated to the god O-kuninushi-no-mikoto, son of Susano-o and a god of fortune and marriage, its construction is of the oldest style in Japan though its present incarnation dates back only to the 18th century and is actually a lot smaller than the original(7). According to the archaeological evidence found in the area, the original temple was built upon enormous columns made of three mid-sized trees bound together, with pillars of decreasing height forming a staircase. A replica of the columns is displayed at the site and on the ground are painted symbols showing where the original pillars would have stood. The grounds around Izumo are quite pretty even with the presence of some very strange modern statues. The main torii entrances to the complex are the largest in Japan and built of unpainted wood that give an elegant naturalistic look to the area(8). Also of interest is the huge knot hung on the main and an adjoining hall, the tassels of which people try to throw coins into to gain good luck. The knot is a symbol of O-kuninushi-no-mikoto’s ability to tie people together in wedlock. Because of this association, when making a prayer at the shrine, you are supposed to go through the regiment of bowing and clapping twice, once for yourself and once for your partner or partner to be. Upon doing so I became very dizzy but I think it had more to do with the influx of blood to my head than actual mystic presence... The shrine also has a lovely museum of artifacts, mainly the offerings to the shrine from important figures in Japanese history. It costs a few hundred yen to get in and is quite small, but the collection is impressive so if you have the spare change it’s worth checking out. Directions: By train, there is no really easy way to get to Matsue. You can take a shinkansen or JR to Okayama then hop aboard the Limited Express Yakumo, a trip that takes 3.5 hours and costs near $100. Trying to save money however by skipping the shinkansen and express forces one to make 3-7 train changes and can be confusing, not to mention it takes 13 hours. That leaves the two best ways of getting to Matsue as taking a bus, although the schedule is strict, or a private car. I was lucky enough during my time in Japan to have a few fantastic adult friends, one of whom actually drove me, which by the way probably cost as much or more than the shinkansen! Other Recommendations: Matsue is famous for “izumo soba” which has a slightly stronger flavor than regular soba. One serving consists of 3 small plates of noodles, a bowl of chilled soy sauce, and little containers of scallions and bonito flakes you can mix at your liking. It’s a very refreshing dish on a hot day. Time Needed: As mentioned, the fastest transport from Hiroshima takes between 3-5 hours so that must be factored in. To see the castle and samurai quarters, not including the Hearn residence, would probably take 3 hours if you take your time. Add thirty minutes to get to Izumo Taisha, and another 30-40 to enjoy the shrine itself. Iwakuni About: After having been passed back and forth over the years, the Kikkawa family, recently defeated in the Battle of Sekigahara, took the land that is now Iwakuni for their own in 1602, remaining in power right up until the Meiji restoration. (9). Iwakuni of course is more famous these days for being home to one of the US military bases, and as such is a popular destination for those who want a taste of “American Food” or “American Life” although Iwakuni has far more to offer. Kintaikyo: A bridge built entirely without nails, the multi-humped structure spanning the 200m wide Nishiki river is truly a lovely site at any time of day a popular rendezvous for lovers and I understand. (10). The original bridge was perfected in 1673 after many attempts, and stood from that point on until 1950 when a horrible typhoon finally destroyed it. Public support and interest in the structure however led it to be rebuilt in the traditional style, 3 years later. You can walk across the bridge although it costs a few hundred yen and you can't see the elegant supports anyways. Sanzoku Restaurant: A little ways from Iwakuni, hidden within the mountains, is an enormous restaurant complex that is rather hard to describe. Originally the area was inhabited by bandits (which is what the name means) and supposedly the meals served today are based off their recipes. If so, all I can say is I want to be a bandit! The main specialties served are chicken thigh-legs that are grilled on flat sticks over an open flame and doused in a delicious soy-citrus sauce. There are also gargantuan musube (rice balls with flavoring), homemade udon, and all manner of other dishes. The atmosphere is exceedingly casual. Upon entering the complex you go to the main window, order food, then wander around admiring the tacky tourist stuff and maybe shopping a bit before finding a table and waiting for your food to be brought out. No need for manners: pick up the chicken leg and gnaw on it. There also is a more formal restaurant mixed into the complex that serves expensive steak dinners. Directions:Getting to Sanzoku is pretty much impossible if you don’t have a car although there is a bus that goes there from Iwakuni’s main station I understand. Nevertheless, the best way would be to talk a group of friends into going and maybe splitting gas\freeway money. Open til the wee hours of morning, it’s a fabulous night out, and even better for a date. Watch out for the Iwakuni Army boys though. They can be quite obnoxious, especially when drunk. Other Recommendations:Iwakuni is also famous for its castle that sits right above the Kintaikyo. I've not been there myself, but it looked quite pretty from a distance. (1)Kurashiki City. "Kurashiki Sightseeing Website: Main Sightseeing Attractions." http://www.city.kurashiki.okayama.jp/kankou/tokutyo/index.html Accessed 25 Nov. 2005. (2) Himeji Castle. "Virtual Tour Himeji Castle." http://www.himeji-castle.gr.jp/ Accessed 25 Nov. 2005. (3) “Himeji” in Web Japan's Japan Atlas, 2005 [database on-line]. http://web-japan.org/atlas/heritage/ Accessed 25 Nov. 2005. (4) Himeji Castle. "Virtual Tour. (5) Matsue City. "Introduction to Matsue City." http://www.city.matsue.shimane.jp/syoukai/index.html Accessed 25 Nov. 2005 (6) Matsue City, "Introduction" (7)Japan National Tourist Organization. "Shimane: Izumo-Taisha Grand Shrine." http://www.jnto.go.jp/eng/RTG/RI/chugoku/shimane/izumotaisha/izumotaisha.html Accessed 25 Nov. 2005. (8) Japan National Tourist Organization. "Shimane: Izumo-Taisha" (9)City of Iwakuni. "History of Iwakuni".http://www.city.iwakuni.yamaguchi.jp/ Accessed 25 Nov. 2005. (10)City of Iwakuni, "History"