Life in Japan Traveling Home BGSU-HJU Links History Transportation Hiroshima Home Important Events City of Peace Things to See Of all the cities in Japan, except for perhaps Nara and Kyoto, Hiroshima seems to have more than the fair share of important and famous sites. The atom bomb domb, Peace Park, and nearby Miyajima's Itsukushima Shrine are all located within the limits of the city's tram service, all of them important historical and cultural symbols of Japan. Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum Looking at Hiroshima today, it would be nearly impossible to guess that just a little over half a century prior there was nothing there but smoking rubble. There are little rememberances throughout the city, things like a hollowed out tree, an old building with pockmarked walls, the unnaturally straight roads. Yet it is in the very heart of the downtown that the past tragedy is commemorated in the form of an elegant city park filled with museums and monuments. Despite what some people might think, the park is generally a happy place. People picnic in the shadow of the A-bomb dome, walk their dogs, play instruments, and go jogging as in any other city park. Also, the Japanese people are almost always friendly towards all foreigners including Americans. Rarely is there a sense of a grudge being held, even among elderly "hibakusha" or victims of the bomb who regularly give lectures in the facilities of the park. The purpose of the place after all is not to obsess or accuse but instead to educate in hopes that the tales of horror associated with Hiroshima might provide the catalyst to end the senseless violence of war, and prevent nuclear holocaust. Atomic Bomb Dome The most easily recognizable site in the park is undoubtedly the ruined frame of the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, better known today as the A-bomb dome (or Genbaku Dome in Japanese) (1). One of the original city’s few western style buildings, the edifice was constructed by the famous Czech architect Jan Letzel in 1915 and was used for various types of exhibitions and shows. Due to its sturdy design, although the bomb detonated only yards away, much of the building remained standing after the disaster albeit in a spectral skeletal form. As Hiroshima started to rebuild, there was much debate over what to do with the ruined structure. Ultimately, in 1966 as a reminder of the horrors of nuclear war and a silent protest against continued testing and development of the devices, the people of Hiroshima decided to preserve the ruin exactly as the bomb had left it (2). UNESCO also recognized the value of the structure and its message, naming the A-bomb dome a World Heritage Site in 1996. The thing that I like best about the dome is that although it was transformed into its modern form by the heat of death and destruction, it is surrounded by life. Cranes, cats, and other animals have made their homes inside the ruins and many plants, including beautiful roses, have been planted nearby. People throng around its protective gates and in the thriving city around it, and at night lights shine a green cast to the building as if it were a living thing. Thus, at least to me, it is a fantastic symbol of hope and rebirth, a perfect representation of the modern city of Hiroshima. Cenotaph Behind the museum is a long pathway leading up to a hut-like structure, usually surrounded by flowers. This is the Cenotaph, a memorial expressing the desire of Hiroshima to rebuild itself as a city dedicated to peace, and holding the names of those people who died from the bomb or related ailments, new names being added every year (3). The design of the cenotaph is supposed to represent an ancient style of house, often seen in the design of Jomon era haniwa (a sort of home for the deceased). Like the haniwa, the cenotaph is suppose to provide a refuge for the souls of the victims. In front of the cenotaph is a small box like those found at temples and shrines. Visitors can donate a few coins and make their own prayer for peace and the happiness of the victims’ souls. Behind the Cenotaph is the Pond and Flame of Peace, symbols of the eternal fight against the abolition of nuclear weapons (4). Children's Peace Monument Despite having died at age 12 from leukemia caused by the radiation she was exposed to ten years earlier, Sadako Sasaki lives on eternally as an example of the suffering that continues after the initial destruction of nuclear weapons (5). She is also the reason that Hiroshima and the park are covered in paper cranes. The story goes that as she lay ill in the hospital, she heard of an old legend that if one was to fold 1000 paper cranes, their health would be restored. With nothing to lose, Sadako embarked on this task and continued to fold the little figures right up until her death on October 2nd, 1955. Her sad tale served as a catalyst for students across the nation to join together and raise money to create a monument memorializing all of the children who suffered and perished because of the atomic bomb. Because of the association with Sadako and the cranes, every day the many visitors to the monument leave their own contributions of the paper figures to demonstrate their desire for peace. In one year, around a total of 10 million cranes are donated. These are stored about a mile away in the semi-rebuilt Bank of Japan on Kamiyacho. After a year, the cranes are given a ceremonial“funeral” and burned, the their ashes carrying their creators' prayers for peace to the heavens. (6). Other Memorials There are many other symbolic statues and memorials besides the ones mentioned above. Varying in size and appearance, they represent a variety of different groups and causes. For example, there is a tall black pillar that memorializes the Koreans who had been brought to Hiroshima as forced laborers and died in the bombing, as well as a large mound where the ashes of the unknown dead are interred (7). Various schools whose pupils were obliterated by the bombing as they worked to build fire lanes also have monuments throughout the grounds. There is also the very beautiful and symbolic Peace Bell, considered to have one of the most beautiful sounds in Japan. Peace Memorial Museum No matter how bright the sun shines, no matter how warm the air, the atmosphere of the Memorial Museum is always cold and somber. Filled with memories and objects from the past, it effectively impresses all visitors with the horror and tragedy of August 6th, 1945. The building is divided into four sections. The International Conference Center Hiroshima or ICCH on the far western side is not actually part of the museum but instead is home to a collection of conference rooms as well as an international library open to the public. There is also a general information desk, public phones, restrooms, and places to sit. The East Building is home to some special exhibitions, an auditorium, and most importantly, to the first half of the Peace Museum and its ticket desk. Brochures and audio guides, available in many languages, can be picked up here as well. Although it costs a few hundred yen extra, I highly recommend getting the audio tour. Hearing a human voice telling the tales, especially personal accounts, makes it easier albeit more painful to connect with the people involved in the infamous event. This first part of the museum gives a basic overview of events, starting with a history of the Hiroshima area, the escalation of hostilities in WWII, the actual dropping of the bomb, and the process of recovery. Of note are the horrifying before-and-after dioramas of the city as well as the model of the A-bomb dome’s familiar skeleton under which copies of letters written by the mayors of Hiroshima against nuclear tests are posted. There is also a section dedicated to discussing the present day use and creation of nuclear weapons with visions of an apocalyptic future if the practice is not immediately discontinued. Overall, the displays in this section are well put together, and the anti-nuclear message inspiring. However, there’s an understandable but disconcerting anti-American stance veiled in the reasons given for the dropping of the atomic bomb. The information given is correct but is presented in such a way as to make Japan almost appear not as an enemy combatant but a helpless victim of imperial aggressions. This interpretation of events nevertheless supports the overall message of the senselessness of nuclear weapons and the general thrust of the museum to fight against their continued use. The Center of the museum and entrance to the west wing is on the second floor. The space includes a gift shop, some sitting areas, and cubicles where you can watch films about the atomic bomb and its aftermath some of which are animated. There are also glass cases of donated items like glass bottles and roof tiles that were warped and melted by the heat of the bomb, exhibits that provide a taste of what is to come. The West Wing is devoted to giving the victims a face and name, making them more than just statistics, and it does so with great effectiveness. Although I have been to the museum many times, I have never been able to pass through this section without tears coming to my eyes. The exhibit starts dramatically with a faux brick hall that appears to be afire. Turning a corner there stands a gruesome diorama of a woman and child, victims of the bomb, their skin hanging in tatters from their ruined arms. The exhibit continues by talking about the various kinds of damage produced by the atomic bomb including the initial blast heat and pressure, the following winds and fire storm, and finally the sickening effects of radiation. Each section is filled with personal artifacts of victims. Here, the trousers worn by a child who died in her mother’s arms due to severe burns. There, the remnants of the bank stairs where the shadow of a man’s mother, evaporated by the heat, can still be seen. On the walls hang pictures of the destruction and the victims, as well as nightmarish drawings by survivors. There are less personal exhibits as well such as a grave markers scorched black on one side, concrete walls filled with shrapnel of broken glass, and an entire brick wall crushed like an accordion by the pressure of the blast. Although the museum ends on a note of hope, speaking of the efforts of recovery and dreams for a future without any more Hiroshimas, it is difficult to shake off the shock of seeing those items and reading the testimonies. The exhibits do their job well, making the very thought of nuclear weapons repugnant, the concept of war even more distasteful than ever. National Peace Memorial Hall Just down the road from the Peace Memorial Museum is a semi-subterranean structure comprised of two connecting circles. The building is quite attractive and modern, but also is the most solemn and sobering place in the entire city, even more so than the museum. There are many classrooms and conference halls built into the complex, but what is of primary interest is the large circular chamber accessed by a long, descending spiral ramp where the victims of the atomic bomb are commemorated. The walls of the room are covered in 140,000 tiles, a rounded estimate of the number of victims, and placed in such a way as to create a solemn panoramic view of the destruction based on photographs taken immediately after(8). The names of different buildings and wards are marked on the walls so as to give visitors a sense of direction which would otherwise be impossible for the lack of landmarks left standing. In the center of the chamber is a small fountain lit by an eerie light, symbolically providing water for the victims, many of whom had been horribly burned and perished crying for something to drink. The overall effect of the room is numbing and painful. Up the escalator is the Visitor’s Information Area. Many hours and tears could be spent here pouring over the personal accounts of survivors. Even simply thinking about and remembering the tales is still enough to bring my heart into my throat. Shukkein Gardens Of all the locations in Hiroshima city, Shukkein is one of the most beautiful. The name means “Shrunken Scenery Garden” for the obvious reason that it presents a myriad of landscapes in miniature(9). The focal point of the garden is the large pond in its center called the takuei, said to resemble Lake Xihu in Hangzhou China. The water is home to turtles, ducks, and carp who eagerly come to the edge of the pond if they think they might be fed. The grounds are filled with little gazebos and pavilions that can be accessed by a network of bridges and stepping stones. There are also man-made mountains, tiny forests of pine, orchards of plum trees, and miniature ravines. Shukkein also boasts an elegant tea house where you can usually partake of matcha served in the traditional way for about 500 yen, although there are special events held there as well. At the entrance to the park there is a small shop that sells tourist goods, fish food, and even udon noodles that can be eaten on the tables outside. This is an especially popular pastime in the spring when the cherry blossoms bloom. The garden’s origins can be traced back to the daimyo Asano Nagaakira who became ruler of the Hiroshima area in 1619(9). Wanting to beautify his detached palace, he ordered his chief retainer, a man by the name of Ueda Soko who was a renowned master of the tea ceremony, to build a garden in a popular “strolling style” that originated in the Muromachi era. The garden remained in the hands of the Asano clan up until 1940 when they donated it to Hiroshima Prefecture(10). However, five years later it was utterly destroyed by the dropping of the atomic bomb. Many victims of the initial blast found there way to the remnants of the park, taking refuge in its once beautiful grounds, many passing away among the dying foliage. Today there is a monument and small shrine dedicated to them that stands within the grounds. Restoration of the garden began in 1949 and was completed in 1976 although the grounds were made open to the public from 1951. Looking at the garden today, you would never guess that anything so horrible had ever occurred. Entry to the garden is a few hundred yen unless you have a Hiroshima International Card in which case it is free. There are many benches and places to sit so the garden is a fabulous place to bring a book and study for a while. Shukkein is located just behind the Hiroshima Prefectural Art Museum, a straight jaunt down Hakushima-douri towards Ushita. There is a tram stop right in front of it as well, making it very easy to find. Hiroshima Castle Rising above the Phoenix Trees, the reconstructed Hiroshima castle, or rather its main tower and one wall, may not have the size and splendor of Himeji castle nor the crowds of Osaka castle, but it is quite attractive in its own way. Due to a homonym used for the area (Koi-ura) and the name of the fish (koi), the building is also known as the carp castle (Rijyo), and its tale is woven into the fabric of Hiroshima’s history. The edifice was originally constructed in 1589 on orders of a local warlord named Mori Terumoto whose family had spent many years consolidating their power in the area. The castle was built relatively quickly with the lord taking up residence in 1593(11). He only lived there 10 years however before he made the mistake leading the forces against Tokugawa Ieyasu in the Battle of Sekigahara. Losing, he was forced to relinquish his palace and control and fled to Yamaguchi prefecture. The castle passed through the hands of other various feudal clans including the Fukushima and Asano until it became a headquarters for the military in 1871, complete with its own division, the First Detached Garrison of Western Japan (12). The military presence was escalated with the creation of the Fifth Division in 1873, and supplemented further at the start of the Sino-Japanese war in 1894 when the castle was made the national military headquarters for planning and organizing the battles. For one year, the Emperor himself dwelt in the castle area returning to Tokyo at the conclusion of the conflict. Military armaments at the castle and its surrounding facilities increased and grew over the years, reaching a breaking point during the second World War. Largely for this reason, the city was chosen as the testing ground for the first atomic bomb to be dropped, with the military headquarters at the castle serving as key targets(13). Thus, like most of the city, the original tower and surrounding buildings were completely obliterated, leaving nothing but a few stones of their foundations. However, in 1958 the concrete reconstruction that stands today was completed and opened to the public. Within the castle itself is an interesting museum that tells the history of Hiroshima city and prefecture. There are also fascinating exhibits on the different kinds of castles in Japan and many artifacts including suits of armor, examples of calligraphy, and even miniature rooms. Honestly, of the many castle-museums I've been to, Hiroshima's is actually one of the best. The top floor also provides a great view of the surrounding area. At the entrance to the grounds, there is also a portion of wall and a reconstructed gate you can enter inside which are models of various castles and other snippets of information. The palace grounds are also host to the remnants of the Fifth Division Army Headquarters as well as the reconstructed Gokoku Jinja. This copper-roofed shrine, originally built in 1879 in honor of all those who fell in the line of military duty, also commemorates the victims of the atomic bomb(14). Besides the manmade structures, there are many natural features of beauty in the lightly wooded but peaceful area. Surrounded by a moat, the castle grounds serve as a home to many birds, animals and stray cats. There are also a number of “phoenix trees”, plants that survived the atomic bomb and damaged and sometimes hollow in spots, have continued to grow and thrive. It’s a lovely place to sit and study or bring some friends and have a picnic. Hiroshima Castle is located just to the north of Sogo department store, to the west of Shukkein Gardens. Busses and trams stop nearby. Miyajima Located about 20 minutes by train from Hiroshima, the sacred island of Miyajima is rightfully considered one of the three most beautiful locations in Japan(15). The little spot of land is considered to be the home of the Shinto goddess Itsukushima-hime-no-mikoto, one of the daughters of Susano-o, and is covered with shrines and temples including the World Heritage caliber Itsukushima Shrine with its famous vermillion Otorii(16). Because of its holy status, there are no cemeteries or hospitals on the island although there is a sizeable town located there. Also, small deer protected by holy laws run freely across the island, sitting in the middle of the road, knocking people over to get potato chips or crackers, and trying to eat the clothing and cameras of the many tourists. Indeed, because of its fame, the island is usually crowded. Personally, I feel the best time to go to Miyajima is the winter. Most of the tourist shops are closed, and it can be bitterly cold, but the atmosphere is calmer, and it’s easier to believe that there actually is a holy force to the island than during the hot, sticky summer. Itsukushima Shrine One of the most famous images associated with Japan is the great red torii that marks the watery entrance to this elegant shrine. The site itself is said to have been founded in 593 by a man named Saeki Kuramoto, but the first version of the modern day edifice wasn’t built until 1168 by the warlord Taira no Kiyomori. (17). That was also the time that Itsukushima, with the patronage of the powerful Heike clan, started to gain notoriety among the elite as a place to make a pilgrimage to. The original shrine suffered through two major fires and was nearly destroyed in a typhoon in 1325, being rebuilt a little differently each time. (18). Another typhoon in 2004 also caused some extensive damage that was being repaired during the year I spent in Hiroshima. For that reason, part of the shrine was being held up with scaffolding and off limit to the public. However, it did not appear that the original structure was being altered. The shrine is built in what is called the Shinden style, the same used for the Imperial Palace of Kyoto (19). However, it is unique in its location in the middle of the water, the main buildings resting on sturdy posts of camphor mired in the mud of the bay. There are two theories as to the reason for this(20). One suggests that the shrine was intended to resemble Gokurakujyodou or the paradise spoken of by Pure Land Buddhist scripts. The other says that, because Itsukushima-hime-no-mikoto is a goddess of the sea, the shrine is supposed to be similar to the mythical Dragon Palace that sits beneath the waves. In any case, during the full tide the shrine appears to be floating on the water, a truly beautiful site. At low tide you can actually walk around the bay, even under the Otorii itself, picking up things left behind by the receding waters like small shells and little crabs the size of your thumbnail. Itsukushima is also the home of a bugaku stage and noh theatre which are used during regular ceremonies as well as weddings. If you’re lucky, you might be an uninvited but welcome guest to such an event. It costs a few hundred yen to get into the shrine itself unless you have a Hiroshima International Card which grants free access. Other Temples and Shrines Although Itsukushima Shrine is the most famous, there are many other things to see and do on Miyajima. Two of my personal favorites are the elegant Daishoin temple and the lovely Momiji-dani park. Daishoin is a beautiful Buddhist temple reached by a long staircase with prayer wheels on the railings. There are also thousands of small statues of bodhisattva to whom you can give offerings in return for the granting of prayers. The temple is a bit of a walk from the main area of town so even during the summer it isn’t generally as crowded as other locations. Momijidani in the meanwhile is a small park which, as the name implies, is filled with maple trees. Thus, during the fall the whole area turns a bright orange hue matching the elegant vermillion bridges. However, the park is gorgeous any time of year, and again not usually so crowded. It’s a very good place for a picnic lunch or simply relaxing. There are many other shrines and temples besides these, each of them a little different than the last and fascinating in their own way. The island also has numerous museums, as well as an overpriced aquarium and, atop Mt. Misen, a “monkey park”. There are also many hiking paths and walking routes crisscrossing the isles which are great for exercise and taking in the scenery. The other thing to do on Miyajima is shop. There are myriad tourist stores, most of them selling cheap generic items, although for a far better price than you will usually find on the mainland. They are good places to get inexpensive good-luck cats, key chains, and postcards. For the more discerning shopper, there are some stores that along with the tourist goods also deal in hand-made crafts from the island, the specialties being in woodwork. The traditional souvenirs from Miyajima are shamoji (rice paddles) and momiji manju, a sort of pastry. Traditionally these snacks were simply a sort of sponge cake filled with black-bean paste (an) though nowadays they come with fillings of chocolate, green tea, custard, and even cream cheese. The stores on miyajima shape them like a maple leaf (momiji) and sell them in gift packs of many sizes. They don’t keep too terribly long however so it’s best to eat them right away. Miyajima is also famous for its oysters and many restaurants on the island have special meals of the shellfish. As a warning though, eating on the island is generally pretty expensive except for a few okonomiyaki shops. Therefore, you might be better off returning to the mainland for supper. To go to Miyajima, take a tram or train to "Miyajima-guchi". From there you can take a JR ferry to the island. The boats run frequently so you don't usually have to wait very long. 1. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. "Hiroshima Peace Site". [online database]; From http://www.pcf.city.hiroshima.jp/top_e.html. Accessed 25 November 2005. 2. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, Hiroshima Peace Site. 3. Ibid. 4. Ibid. 5. City of Hiroshima. "Paper Cranes and the Children’s Peace Monument." 2001. From "http://www.city.hiroshima.jp/shimin/heiwa/crane.html". Accessed 22 November 2005. 6. City of Hiroshima, Paper Cranes. 7. Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, Hiroshima Peace Site. 8. Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall for the Atomic Bomb Victims. [online.] 11 September 2005. From http://www.hiro-tsuitokinenkan.go.jp/english/index.php. Accessed 25 November 2005. 9. Hiroshimaken Shukkein. "Outline History" [online]. 2002. From http://www.manabi.pref.hiroshima.jp/shukkeien/GAIYOU/gaiyo.html. Accessed 1 December 2005. 10. Hiroshimaken Shukkein. "Outline History" 11. Hiroshima Peace Culture Foundation. "Origins of Hiroshima".[online] 2002. From http://www.city.hiroshima.jp/kikaku/joho/toukei/History-E/c01.html. Accessed 1 December 2005. 12. Hiroshima Peace Culture Foundation. "Establishment of Hiroshima City".[online] 2002. From http://www.city.hiroshima.jp/kikaku/joho/toukei/History-E/c02.html. Accessed 1 December 2005. 13. Hiroshima Peace Culture Foundation. "The Pacific War and the A-Bomb".[online] 2002. From http://www.city.hiroshima.jp/kikaku/joho/toukei/History-E/c03.html. Accessed 1 December 2005. 14. Gokoku Jinja. [online]. From http://www.h-gokoku.or.jp/. Accessed 1 December 2005. 15. Miyajima Tourist Information Office. "A Guide to Miyajima" [online] 2000. From http://www.hiroshima-cdas.or.jp/miyajima/stork/kanko1.htm. Accessed 1 December 2005. 16. Allan, Tony, Michael Kerrigan and Charles Phillips, Myth and Mankind: Japanese Myth, Realm of the Rising Sun. (Amsterdam: Time Life Books BV, 2000), 7. 17. Miyajima Tourist Information Office. "Origin of Itsukushima Shrine" [online] 2000. From http://www.hiroshima-cdas.or.jp/miyajima/jinja/origin/yurai.htm Accessed 1 December 2005. 18.Miyajima Tourist. "Origin of Itsukushima Shrine" 19. Miyajima Tourist Information Office. "Shinden Style of Architecture" [online] 2000. From http://www.hiroshima-cdas.or.jp/miyajima/english/jinja/sinden/sinden.htm Accessed 1 December 2005. 20.Miyajima Tourist Information Office. "The Incredible Shrine Standing in the Sea" [online] 2000. From http://www.hiroshima-cdas.or.jp/miyajima/jinja/kaichu/kaichu.htm Accessed 1 December 2005.